+ News and Press
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Innovative Italians at Luca
"The Cayman Islands Journal", November
2007
by Lindsey Turnbull.
This month the Journal has teamed up with the experts at
Jacques Scott to sample some interesting
Italian wines, some that break out of the usual Italian varietal
mould and some that are classics. And where better than to
sample fine Italian wines that at a fine Italian restaurant
– the Caribbean Club’s Luca.
Zeveri Cavit
Müller Thurgau, Trentino Superiore, Cavit
CI$ 25.95
Awarded 88 Points, Wine Review Online
Won Critics Award 2006, Critics Challenge International Wine
Competition
Müller Thurgau is not a grape necessarily synonymous
with Italian wines, yet Cavit winemaker Anselmo Martini has
managed to produce an award-winning full bodied, mineral-rich
wine from the grape, called Zeveri.
Zeveri is made from grapes sourced from individual vineyards
from Trentino, producing a Trentino Superiore DOC-denominated
wine. Zeveri is a prestige cru and the outcome of a special
initiative concentrating on territory-specific wines
spearheaded by Cavit. The result is a delicate straw yellow
colour with a fresh and citrussy nose.
Wine Review online says, “With nice, subtle floral
aromatics, soft melon fruit, prominent mineral notes, and
excellent acidity, this is light bodied but amply endowed
with interesting elements.”
Ross Philips, Marketing Manager with Jacques Scott says,
“This is a complex, highly fragrant wine that shows
crisp acidity and is the perfect partner for seafood
and sushi.”
To illustrate this point the wine was served with Luca’s
Maryland Blue Crab and avocado salad which made for a pleasing
combination. Luca’s excellent seafood broth was also
served with the Zeveri but the combination did not shine
as well as when it was served with a glass of Rocca della
Macie Chianti Classico. But more on that later.
Cavit Riesling 2006
CI$ 14.95
“Pretty much every wine writer has been saying for decades
that Riesling is delightful, beautifully made and goes with
a wide variety of food. Finally it appears that people are
listening. Imports from Germany, the home of classic Riesling,
have risen more than 20% this year and will likely hit a record.
And when big players like the Cavit Collection place big bets
on Riesling - it imported Italian Riesling for the first time
this year - you know something important is happening.”
Dorothy J. Gaiter & John Brecher Wall Street Journal
The Cavit winery is based in Trentino, a picturesque landscape
of mountains, lakes, apple orchards and medieval castles.
Vineyards in this region enjoy the warming effects of the
“Ora del Garda,” a dry, balmy breeze that sweeps
across Lake Garda and protects the fruit from external
moisture and disease.
Contrastingly cool evenings promote rich, intense aromas
and flavors in the grapes. Winemaking is overseen by
Anselmo Martini, a 20 year plus industry veteran and one of
northern Italy’s top enologists.
The steely rolling hills of the Po river valley in Pavia,
Lombardy are home to around 40,000 acres of vineyards,
producing Riesling grapes that create a pale straw coloured
wine with characteristic floral citrus notes.
Paul McLaughlin, Retail Manager with Jacques Scott says,
“There are lots of lovely ripe peach, apricot and citrus
flavours in this wine and it is incredibly versatile and pairs
nicely with a wide range of dishes, including fish and white
meats as well as Asian-inspired food.”
An incredibly delicate foie gras was served with this wine
and made for a perfect pairing, the delicious light notes
of both the wine and meat creating a marvelous melding of
flavours on the tongue.
Ross adds, “Lombardy wines have only recently begun
to acquire a well-deserved recognition that extends beyond
regional borders. Traditionally these wines were sold in local
country restaurants and taverns only, but now they are enjoying
international recognition.”
2005 Pieropan Soave Classico
CI$15.95
Pieropan was founded by Dr. Leonildo Pieropan in 1890. His
two sons, Fausto and Gustavo, took on the company and ran
it with the same passion, with grandson Leonildo revolutionising
it years later and still at the helm today.
Grapes for this Soave are 90% Garganega, 10% Trebbiano di
Soave and are grown on hillside vineyards of the Soave Classico
sub appellation.
The volcanic soil is clay-basaltic and therefore conducive
to producing fine white wine, with a brilliant straw yellow
greenish hues.
Ross states, “Soave can be a really great wine and
this one certainly is. There are lots of pear-like nuances
to this wine and it possesses great structure, good acidity
and a soft texture.”
He continues, “Pieropan has been at the forefront of
this region for a while, producing some quality wines that
pair beautifully with seafood and chicken meals.”
Luca’s Vitello de Tonnato was a classically prepared
dish with just the right delicate amount of tuna-infused creamy
sauce to bring the dish alive. The marriage of the dish with
this Soave was excellent as the dry crisp wine sat well with
the rich creamy sauce. The wine was also tried with Luca’s
Mahi Mahi en papillote but tasters much preferred the veal
pairing.
Rocca delle Macie, Chiant Classico
riserva 2001
CI$ 26.95
Rated 92 points and good value by Wine Report
Rated 3 stars by Decanter magazine
Rocca delle Macie’s vineyards are situated in the most
prestigious area of Chianti Classico in the commune of Castellina
in Chianti, producing classic wines in every sense of the
word. Made from a blend of 90% Sangiovese, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon,
5% Merlot, this wine is matured in oak barrels for at least
two years then bottled. It remains in the bottle for about
six months to mature before being released.
The result is a ruby red wine with a rich, intense and complex
bouquet and a dry, soft, gently tannic taste that has good
structure.
Decanter magazine states, “As generous in its maroon-purple
hue as it was in its smooth, well-balanced body, this diabolically
seductive offering cast a spell on the panel with aromas and
flavors of ready-to burst cherries, rich, dark chocolate,
tobacco, sage and vanilla-kissed oak. Bewitching to the end,
it left a sinfully memorable taste of black fruits and velvety
tannins that melted in the mouth. Chianti Classico Riserva.”
Straight to the pairing, which Paul dubbed "Match of
the Day", this Chianti was a particular hit when paired
with Luca's luscious tomato-infused seafood broth and most
definitely took tasters to an Italian trattoria nestled somewhere
in the heart of Tuscany.
The wine also paired well with Luca’s char-grilled
steak, although tasters noted a more intense chargrilled
flavour than when the dish was paired with the following wines.
Palazzo della Torre Veronese 2004, Allegrini
CI$ 24.95
Palazzo della Torre was selected by Wine Spectator as one
of the “Top 100 wines of the World” for five years
in a row, from 2000 to 2005.
The Allegrini winery is owned by Franco and Marilisa Allegrini
and its first vintage was bottled in1950. Now its 350 acres
produce 950,000 bottles annually.
Dense and deep ruby red in color, this Palazzo della Torre
is made from 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella and 5% Sangiovese
grapes.
Ross says, “The Palazzo della Torre is redolent with
blackberry and licorice on the palate, as well as hints of
raisins and plums. It is full-bodied and rich, with firm tannins.”
Paul called this wine “finesse in a glass” and
confirms, “This wine cries out to be accompanied by
grilled or roasted meats and barbecued ribs.”
Tasters enjoyed Luca’s spinach gnocchi in a taleggio
cream sauce with the wine, which was a lovely dish in itself
but couldn’t stand up quite so successfully to the full
bodied intensity of the wine as the char grilled steak.
Aglianico Contado Di Majo Norante
CI$18.95
Rated 90 points by Wine Advocate
“The 2002 Aglianico Contado exhibits terrific minerality
along with blueberry, blackberry, graphite, and incense notes.
Raspberry flavors are noticeable in the mouth. Good acidity,
ripe tannin, and a layered mouthfeel...”
Wine Advocate This red is made from the Aglianico grape and
comes from the region of Italy known as Molise, which is a
slice of central Italy stretching from the Apennines to the
Adriatic, has long been an overlooked member of Italy’s
wine regions. Molise was a long time appendix of Abruzzo only
gaining official status in the 1980s.
The climate, soil and other conditions in Molise indicate
a natural aptitude for the vine though bottlings are still
somewhat limited. In the 1970s the dynamic Luigi Di Majo built
a winery from scratch on the vast seaside estates belonging
to his wife’s family.
Today, Di Majo Norante is setting examples for others to
follow as the region struggles for its own vinicultural identity.
The Aglianico grape was brought to Italy by the Greeks in
the 6th century B.C., when it enjoyed an early heyday in the
ancient world as one of the key components of Falernum, a
wine revered by kings and poets. After nearly being wiped
out by Phylloxera in the 19th century, the grape is now experiencing
a great revival in Southern Italy. Inky-black in colour, with
big tannins and firm structure, the grape offers typical notes
of black fruits, smoke, dark chocolate and mineral. It is
a natural match for roasts and game. Wines made from Aglianico
exude characteristics of deep red fruit and this wine is no
exception.
Tasters enjoyed a variety of dishes with this wine but again
the char-grilled steak came out a winner when paired with
the big flavours of the Contado.
