Zuccardi Concreto Malbec

Concreto does what the name says: this Malbec is fermented and aged in concrete vats with no oak anywhere in the process. Zuccardi made it to show what Malbec from Paraje Altamira, the stony alluvial fan at the top of the Uco Valley, tastes like when nothing gets in the way of the grape and the ground.

The result is Malbec with the volume turned down and the focus turned up: dark plum, blueberry, violets and a distinct chalky, stony minerality, with fresh acidity and tannins that are firm but polished. Serious wine that still drinks easily.

Decant for an hour if you can. Grilled beef, of course, but also lamb, mushrooms and hard cheeses. Will cellar for a decade.